A new brew: Coffee plus olive oil

How do you take your coffee? Milk, sugar... how about olive oil? My thoughts on the new Starbuck's "Oleato" coffee line and your health.

If you’ve ever traveled to Italy, you’re likely familiar with the Italian passion for good coffee. Espresso bars can be found scattered across every major city and the countryside even in the smallest of villages. The ritual of enjoying an espresso standing at the coffee bar is as much a treasured food tradition as gelato in the summer or pasta basically any day of the year.

Starbuck’s latest caffeinated concoction is hitting the news after debuting in Milan at the start of fashion week. It will be rolled out in southern California as a beverage option at the chain later this spring. The new line is called Oleato™—inspired by the Italian term for “oiled.” Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is a staple of the Mediterranean diet, which has been the subject of numerous population-level studies on health and longevity. During my 20 years of research on food, health, and medicinal plants in Italy, I have never encountered a combination of coffee and olive oil, despite Italians' deep appreciation for both. I can imagine this new product was met with much curiosity in Milan!

The American Heart Association has interpreted studies evaluating the consumption of olive oil on its own (in absence of the Mediterranean diet) as possibly lowering heart disease risk. So, the big question around the hype: Is it actually good for cardiovascular health? Let’s dig in.

The chemistry of coffee

Methylxanthine alkaloids found in coffee, tea, and chocolate that are responsible for the stimulant properties of these plants.

The stimulant properties of coffee (scientific name of the plant: Coffea arabica in the Rubiaceae family) are due to a mixture of plant defense compounds known as methylxanthine alkaloids. Examples of these bitter stimulant compounds include theophylline, theobromine, and caffeine, and they can be found in high concentrations in coffee, tea, and chocolate.

These methyxanthine compounds when taken in very high concentrations can be dangerous to your heart. For example, high doses of these alkaloids found in caffeine supplements and energy beverages can cause anxiety and increase heart rate. The Food and Drug Administration notes that concentrated caffeine products can be toxic or even lethal. One teaspoon of pure powdered caffeine is equivalent to the caffeine found in 28 cups of coffee!

The good news: Moderate coffee consumption yields a stimulant effect without hitting that toxic range possible in concentrated products.

Coffee and heart health

Many studies have been conducted to evaluate the risk of coronary heart disease (CHD) among coffee consumers. However, these studies report conflicting results, reducing certainty on whether regular coffee consumption is healthy or harmful to the heart. As with many studies on the diet, there are inherent challenges in assessing outcomes as the human diet is complex and there are many genetic and environmental factors that play an important role in cardiovascular health.

A meta-analysis of 32 prospective cohort studies was published in the American Journal of Cardiology this year and reported these major findings:

1. No significant association between coffee consumption and CHD risk among generally healthy people

2. Coffee consumption increases the risk of CHD in men (especially in a 20-year follow up assessment), but nonsignificantly decreases it in women.

3. Moderate coffee consumption decreases risk of CHD.

What’s the take-away lesson? If you are generally healthy, moderate coffee consumption is fine and may even reduce risk of CHD. Avoid heavy consumption of coffee or supplements or beverages enriched with high levels of those methylxanthine alkaloids.

The chemistry of olive oil

Olive oil is one of the core ingredients to the Mediterranean diet, serving as a source of healthy fat and coupled with high consumption of whole grains, fruits, nuts, vegetables, and fish.

The chemical composition of olive oil (scientific name: Olea europaea in the Oleaceae family) includes oleic acid (major component), linoleic acid, and palmitic acid, as well as a variety of polyphenolic molecules (including flavonoids) that give olive oil its distinct flavor and contribute to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. The ratios of each compound present in the oil differs based on the cultivar of olive tree grown, altitude, soil composition, time of harvest, and the oil extraction process.

Olive oil and heart health

Olive oil has been a point of fascination for nutrition scientists for some time now, with many clinical trials conducted to evaluate the potential health benefits of this plant-derived fat. One meta-analysis that caught my attention looked at 841,211 subjects involved in 32 cohort studies. Following some intensive statistical analyses, they found significant associations between higher intakes of olive oil and reduced risk of all-cause mortality, cardiovascular events, and stroke.

While some studies have looked at the individual unsaturated fatty acids—especially the major component of oleic acid—for potential health-benefiting effects, others have turned to the slightly bitter polyphenol molecules for answers. Extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) has the highest levels of polyphenols. One meta-analysis of 26 clinical trials found that olive oil with high levels of polyphenols confer some cardiovascular risk reduction.

What’s the takeaway lesson? Olive oil is considered a heart-healthy dietary fat (superior to butter, margarine, and mayonnaise). People who include olive oil as a major source of fats in the diet have reduced levels of inflammatory markers in their body and reduced risks to heart health. Importantly, quality of the olive oil matters as some of these benefits may be linked to polyphenols. So if you have a choice, pick EVOO. The most benefits may be from inclusion of EVOO within a Mediterranean style diet, rich in whole grains, fruits, and vegetables.

Want to learn more? Check out these episodes on coffee and olive oil that appeared in prior seasons of the Foodie Pharmacology podcast.

What does the combo of coffee + olive oil taste like?

I’m writing this newsletter from home in Atlanta this week, alas not in Milan—and so I don’t have first-hand experience in tasting the specific Starbucks Oleato™ coffee and olive oil formulations, which are being offered as both cold and hot beverages. The company describes the beverages in such terms as “velvety smooth” and “featuring notes of hazelnut.”

Would I try one? Sure! They sound interesting to me and I love to explore new flavors.

Will I drink it to support my heart health? Nope! Those other key ingredients of pro-inflammatory sugar-laden vanilla or caramel syrups and creams will likely negate any possible health boost from the olive-oil infused brew.

Yours in health, Dr. Quave

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Nature’s Pharmacy is written by Cassandra L. Quave, Ph.D.—a disabled writer, speaker, podcast host, professor, wife, mother, explorer, and ethnobotanist. Dr. Quave is Associate Professor of Dermatology and Human Health at Emory University School of Medicine. She has written about her work as a scientist in The Plant Hunter: A Scientist’s Quest for Nature’s Next Medicines (Viking/Penguin 2021). During the day, she teaches college courses and leads a large group of talented research scientists studying medicinal plants in the search for new life-saving drugs from nature. In her spare time she hosts the Foodie Pharmacology podcast and writes this newsletter. Her main goal is to share the incredible science behind the medicines found in nature. This newsletter is only possible through the generous support of fellow Nature’s Pharmacy community members. To support this effort and join the community, please consider a paid or founding subscription. While supplies last, founding members will receive an autographed 1st edition hardcover copy of The Plant Hunter!!