Honoring Indigenous Peoples' Day through Food Activism
This Indigenous Peoples' Day, learn about the ground-breaking work underway by North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NĀTIFS).
On October 8, 2021, President Biden issued a proclamation honoring America’s first inhabitants and the Tribal Nations that continue to thrive today:
I call upon the people of the United States to observe this day with appropriate ceremonies and activities. I also direct that the flag of the United States be displayed on all public buildings on the appointed day in honor of our diverse history and the Indigenous peoples who contribute to shaping this Nation.
Long before this presidential proclamation, cities across the country had adopted this holiday in support of Indigenous groups and activists who chose not to celebrate Columbus Day. Columbus day, named after the European navigator whose 1492 arrival in America led to the colonization and subsequent genocide of communities within Indigenous Tribal Nations, has been a point of contention for many.
Over a span of 111 years (1776-1887) the U.S. government seized more than 1.5 billion acres from Indigenous Nations by treaty and executive orders. This video [1.5 minutes] depicts the progression of this land seizure, concluding with a map of federal reservations as they exist today. You can learn more about this and view an interactive map at the ehistory.com project page, Invasion of America.
In celebration of Indigenous Peoples’ Day, I ask you to join me in honoring Indigenous heritage and food sovereignty.
What is NĀTIFS?
North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NĀTIFS) is a non-profit organization with a vision to rekindle and empower indigenous food sovereignty. I first met the founder, chef and Indigenous advocate Sean Sherman, at the joint conference of the Society for Economic Botany and Society of Ethnobiology held in Madison, Wisconsin, in June 2018.
Our ancestors understood how to live in balance with the natural world. Indigenous foods are the original foods of this continent. It’s important we recognize that and start celebrating those foods. —Sean Sherman
Sean, who is also know as the “Sioux Chef,” is a vocal proponent for Indigenous rights to native foods. In addition to NĀTIFS, Sean is founder of Owamni, a celebrated restaurant in Minneapolis, MN, featuring decolonized ingredients—meaning, no beef, pork, chicken, dairy, cane sugar or wheat flour. Instead, you’ll find on your plate wild game, fish, birds, corn, beans, and native plants.
This summer, Chef Sean delivered a lecture at the joint conference of the Society for Economic Botany and the Society of Ethnobiology, which was held at Emory University in Atlanta, GA, in June 2023. His talk provided profound insights into the challenges faced by the Indigenous Peoples of North America, as well as the potential opportunities that lie in decolonizing our food and revitalizing Indigenous food sovereignty. His lecture, titled “The (R)evolution of Indigenous Foodways”, was met with a standing ovation. You can watch it here [33 minutes]:
What’s happening now with NATIFS?
Some of the exciting projects underway at NĀTIFS include:
The Indigenous Food Lab: A professional Indigenous kitchen and training center
Indigenous Food Lab is a professional Indigenous kitchen and training center at the heart of our work establishing a new Indigenous food system that reintegrates Native Foods and Indigenous-focused Education into tribal communities across North America.
The Indigenous Food Lab Market: The IFL Market in the Midtown Global Market is a first of its kind in Minneapolis; a pilot from NĀTIFS that will be replicated elsewhere throughout North America to support Indigenous food access and enterprise development in any interested region.
How can you contribute to this initiative?
NĀTIFS is a non-profit organization. You can support their work in Minnesota and their efforts to expand to Native lands across the nation by making a financial donation. You can also support NATIFS by enjoying some of their food products. The Indigenous Food Lab Market has options for both local pickup and online shopping with shipping.
The Takeaway
On this Indigenous Peoples' Day, let's reflect on the potential impact a revitalized Indigenous food system could have on people throughout the continent, particularly in terms of health improvements for Native communities.
Want to try some of Chef Sean’s recipes? You may be interested in reading his award-winning cookbook, The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen. I have a copy at home and love it! His white bean and winter squash soup is a household favorite in the fall!
Yours in health, Dr. Quave
Want to learn more?
I’ve been fortunate to speak with several Indigenous food advocates on the Foodie Pharmacology podcast. Here are some of my favorite episodes. Give them a listen:
Progressive Indigenous Cuisine with Shane Chartrand and Jennifer Cockrall-King
"The Sioux Chef" Sean Sherman, Labrador Tea and Indigenous Eats
Cassandra L. Quave, Ph.D. is a scientist, author, speaker, podcast host, wife, mother, explorer, and professor at Emory University School of Medicine. She teaches college courses and leads a group of research scientists studying medicinal plants to find new life-saving drugs from nature. She hosts the Foodie Pharmacology podcast and writes the Nature’s Pharmacy newsletter to share the science behind natural medicines. To support her effort, consider a paid or founding subscription, with founding members receiving an autographed 1st edition hardcover copy of her book, The Plant Hunter.
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Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful info. Just what I needed today. Alternatives to trying to right so much of our sad history. You are so amazing. I’m so grateful to know you and be part of this community💕😘🙏