Bakuchiol for Photoaging: Does it work?
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived molecule used in skin products to reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
There are many products available on the market today touting the promotion of younger looking skin. These typically target wrinkles and skin spots (hyperpigmentation), with retinoids dominating this space. However, there is a non-retinoid option which acts on similar targets in the skin: bakuchiol. Earlier this year, a subscriber to the newsletter asked me to look into this molecule for a future post. Here is what I found.
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived natural product originally discovered in the Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine plant Cullen corylifolium (also known by the synonym: Psoralea corylifolia) of the Fabaceae (bean) plant family. The local name for the plant is “Bakuchi” and this inspired the name of the meroterpenoid molecule, Bakuchiol. See the image above for the chemical structure of the molecule.
Bakuchiol Vs. Retinoids. What is the Difference?
Retinoids, derived from vitamin A, include compounds such as retinoic acid and retinol, which boost collagen production and help reduce the appearance of fine lines. Beyond their anti-aging benefits, retinoids are also effective in treating acne, though they can cause skin irritation and increased sensitivity to sunlight.
Bakuchiol, while not derived from vitamin A, similarly enhances collagen production and offers anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It has a meroterpenoid chemical structure and is associated with milder side effects compared to retinoids, including less irritation and lower sensitivity to sunlight.
Clinical Studies on Bakuchiol
There have been a number of clinical studies evaluating bakuchiol alone, or in combination with or comparison to retinoids. I’ve summarized a few key studies here:
A clinical study on 60 women aged 40-65 with sensitive skin (1/3 of patients had eczema, 1/3 with rosacea, and 1/3 with cosmetic intolerance syndrome) evaluated a bakuchiol based skin cleanser and moisturizer for tolerability for a month and found it was well tolerated by all except 10% of subjects (mainly those with eczema, who experienced mild stinging at treatment onset).
A randomized, double-blind, prospective study with 44 patients over 3 months comparing 0.5% bakuchiol versus 0.5% retinol cream found no significant difference between the two, with both significantly reducing fine wrinkles and intensity of skin pigmentation. There was significantly more scaling and stinging in the retinol group.
An open-label single center trial on 44 female patients evaluated 0.5% retinol with 0.5% bakuchiol and a root extract of Ophiopogon japonicus found significant clinical improvements for reduction in pigmentation at 2 and 3 months when compared to baseline measures.
The Takeaway
As we age, our skin naturally changes, leading to sagging, uneven texture, and dark spots. Because youthful-looking skin is often seen as a sign of good health, dermatologists have long researched ways to slow down or reduce these signs of aging. For decades, retinoids—derived from vitamin A—have been the go-to ingredients in anti-aging products, helping to smooth wrinkles and improve skin texture. However, they can cause irritation and sensitivity for some people. Recently, bakuchiol has gained popularity as a gentler, plant-based alternative to retinol. It offers similar benefits, like reducing fine lines and helping with acne, but with less risk of irritation. As interest in "clean beauty" grows, bakuchiol is becoming a sought-after option for those looking for effective yet mild skincare solutions.
Patients with sensitive skin often struggle with using topical retinoids due to irritation. Clinical studies have shown that bakuchiol is not only effective compared to retinol but also better tolerated by those with sensitive skin, making it a gentler alternative for anti-aging and acne treatment.
If you have questions about which anti-aging products are best for you, please speak with your dermatologist.
Yours in health, Dr. Quave
Cassandra L. Quave, Ph.D. is a Guggenheim Fellow, CNN Champion for Change, Fellow of the National Academy of Inventors, recipient of The National Academies Award for Excellence in Science Communication, and award-winning author of The Plant Hunter. Her day job is as professor and herbarium director at Emory University School of Medicine, where she leads a group of research scientists studying medicinal plants to find new life-saving drugs from nature. She hosts the Foodie Pharmacology podcast and writes the Nature’s Pharmacy newsletter to share the science behind natural medicines. To support her effort, consider a paid or founding subscription to Nature’s Pharmacy or donation to her lab research.
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